NOTE : Please note that I no longer own this Rover 800, and may not be able to help with technical queries anymore for this vehicle. These pages are here for information only.

Replacing Front Brake Pads on 1988 Rover Sterling

The changing of the front brake pads on my 1988 Rover sterling was very simple, and can easily be carried out by any home mechanic with ease. The job took me approximately 30 minutes for both sides.

It is recommended that you replace the lower guide pin bolt on each side, I am not sure if this is necessary and I didn't bother on this job.

1. Slacken the Road Wheel Bolts and jack up the appropriate side of the car at the front and support it on axle stands. Remove the road wheel. Be sure to make the car secure before working underneath).
   
   
2. If you are working on the Passenger Side, you will need to disconnect the Pad Wear Warning Light Wires. These can be disconnected by tracing the wires from the back of the brake pad to the connecter which is fitted onto the back of the calliper.
   
   

3. You will need to push the main piston back into the calliper to enable new shoes to be fitted. There are special tools available which will do this for you, but I just improvised with a large screwdriver. (Be sure not to damage the piston arrangement however)
   
   
4. Connect a small length of pipe to the bleed screw and place the other end in a jam jar or other suitable container. Open the bleed screw while you are pushing the cylinder back. Close the bleed screw after the piston is fully home. This ensures that no bad fluid or crud is pumped back through the pipes and into the ABS circuit. Close the bleed screw and remove the pipe from the nipple.
   
   
5. Hold the guide pin stationary with a spanner and undo the guide pin bolt. It shouldn't be necessary to take this all the way out, just enough to release the guide pin.
   
   

6. The calliper can now easily be rotated upwards and rested on the top of the brake disc. Be careful not to kink or damage the flexible brake pipe.
   
   

7. The old brake pads can just be pulled out of the calliper.
   
   
8. Clean the calliper and piston of brake dust (Don't breathe it in, because it could be nasty) using a brush. Take care not to loose the heat shield. (Thin metal plate that fits in the end of the piston).
   
   
9. If you haven't got new anti-squeal shims, then remove and clean these from the old brake pads.
   
   

10. Apply a thin coating of Copper Slip (Or alternative) to the back of the brake pads and shims. (Take care not to get any on the brake pad linings or the disc.)
    
    
11. Refit the pads into position in the calliper (Reconnecting the brake pad wear warning cables as appropriate)
    
    
12. Ensure that the guide pins move freely and apply a little grease to both top and bottom pins. The whole calliper can be pulled off, to expose the top pin.
    
    
13. Rotate the calliper back down over the new pads.
    
    
14. Tighten the bottom guide pin bolt into the guide pin. (Remember your torque wrench - 24 lbft)
    
    
15. Job done, refit the road wheel. and repeat the other side.